Taste

A freshly made cinnamon raisin bagel is a perfect morning bite. It's fragrant, moist, chewy and just a tiny bit sweet. Add butter or cream cheese, and it's a satisfying and substantial breakfast.

The problem is that a lot of bagels — particularly those sold in grocery stores — are simply not all that they should be, mainly because manufacturers of packaged bagels often omit critical steps in the bagel-making process.

Great bagels require good gluten development, adequate resting time, a boiling water or steam bath and a high-temperature bake. Skip one step, and the result is a bad bagel — a round of bland, soft, cakelike bread, or a dense, dry puck that's hard to choke down.

When shopping for bagels, look for plump, non-wrinkly rounds with a shiny, glossy surface and just a small hole in the center. If it's properly made, it will not only have a shiny skin on the outside, but it will bounce back to shape readily when gently squeezed. It's also a good idea to check for high protein content, as that indicates it was made with high-quality flour.

Here's the scoop on the best cinnamon raisin bagels sold in grocery stores — and the ones to avoid. Nutrition info refers to one full-sized bagel, which ranges from 3 to 3.7 ounces.

Nice chew, a good hit of cinnamon and deep color on this extra-large bagel make it one of the best tasting — and least expensive — on the shelf. 290 calories, 1 g fat, 500 mg sodium, 13 g sugar, 10 g protein. $3 for six (24 ounces, but you must buy two bags) at Costco. (4 stars)

This brand doesn't deliver the leathery skin of an artisan bagel, but it delivers big flavor and has a pleasantly spongy, bread-like texture. 270 calories, 3 g fat, 400 mg sodium, 11 g sugar, 12 g protein. $6.79 for five (16.75 ounces) at Raley's. (3½ stars)

Semi-chewy texture and a touch of extra sweetness from sucralose makes these bagels a good pick for young eaters. They are not artisan, but enjoyable as long as they are toasted. 260 calories, 1.5 g fat, 360 mg sodium, 11 g sugar, 9 g protein. $5.99 for five (23 ounces) at Raley's. (2½ stars)

Made with whole wheat, these small bagels offer decent chew, but they’re lacking in cinnamon, and the raisins are merely flecks. Two mini-bagels have 200 calories, 1 g fat, 340 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 8 g protein. $6.99 for 10 (15.2 ounces) at Whole Foods. (2 stars)

More cinnamon, please. These bready, sweet-style bagels are OK when lightly toasted, but they’re too soft and need a lot more cinnamon. 280 calories, 1.5 g fat, 390 mg sodium, 10 g sugar, 9 g protein. $5.89 for six (20 ounces) at Raley's. (1½ stars)

If looks were everything, these large, raisin-pocked bagels swirled with loads of cinnamon would win. Sadly, the flavor falls flat. A pinch of sugar and salt would be a huge improvement. 300 calories, 1 g fat, 290 mg sodium, 8 g sugar, 9 g protein. $6.49 for six (23 ounces). (1 star)

The flavor is fine, but these bagels are incredibly dry and crumbly, much like a piece of stale cake. 230 calories, .5 g fat, 330 mg sodium, 12 g sugar, 8 g protein. $2.69 for six (18 ounces) bagels. (½ a star)

There's just nothing right about these bagels. They’re pale, dense and incredibly bland. 230 calories, 1 g fat, 370 mg sodium, 8 g sugar, 8 g protein. $4.79 for six (18 ounces) at Safeway. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at [email protected]. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.

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