Off the Menu: Arlington Club Opens, Rack & Soul and Boom Closes

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By Florence Fabricant

Opening

ARLINGTON CLUB The chef Laurent Tourondel and his partners from Tao Group have given tradition a modern spin in this rather grand duplex establishment. Brick vaulting, steel arches, tufted navy blue leather, reclaimed oak and touches of gold are deployed on the main floor and mezzanine. A classic steak menu is given the chef's personal style, with dishes like sole meunière using preserved lemon. Sushi also gets creative with crispy wagyu and truffle, and grilled lobster with avocado. (Opens Friday): 1032 Lexington Avenue (73rd Street), (212) 249-5700.

BEATRICE INN After countless trial dinners and private parties, Graydon Carter's third restaurant has opened, with a bar, a nicely upholstered library-style dining room and an airier rear room. Brian Nasworthy's American menu has a steakhouse spin, with potato soup, a wedge salad, shrimp cocktail, roast chicken, lamb chops, a burger and an American wagyu rib-eye for two for $140: 285 West 12th Street (West Fourth Street), (646) 896-1804. Reservations: [email protected].

BILL’S John DeLucie has a penchant for renovating venerable restaurant locations, including the Lion in Greenwich Village and the town house on East 81st Street that has become Crown. Now, having moved into what was Bill's Gay Nineties, he has taken an elegant dark paintbrush to the paneled walls in the ground-floor bar, the second-floor dining room and the third-floor private room. He has hung art everywhere, as is his signature. The executive chef Jason Hall, a Gotham Bar and Grill alumnus who runs the kitchen at Crown, offers a chophouse menu, with a veal shank for two and spaghetti fra diavolo. (Monday): 57 East 54th Street, (212) 518-2727.

BRISKETTOWN After a summer spent raising money by having people pay in advance for barbecued smoked brisket by the pound, Daniel Delaney is finally opening his little restaurant. (Friday): 359 Bedford Avenue (South Fourth Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 701-8909.

CAFE EVERGREEN The Upper East Side Chinese restaurant, known for its Cantonese menu, dim sum and deep wine cellar, has moved north. (Thursday): 1367 First Avenue (73rd Street), (212) 744-3266.

LE PHILOSOPHE Amadeus Bogner, who was a partner in Hung Ry, an avant-garde Chinese noodle parlor that closed in June, has turned the space into a French bistro, "modern style," he said. The chef, Matt Aita, worked at Jean Georges. The modern element is the décor, sans wicker and posters, more than the menu of blanquette de veau, duck à l’orange and lobster thermidor. (Wednesday): 55 Bond Street (Bowery), (212) 388-0038.

SEN This branch of an established favorite in Sag Harbor on Long Island, owned by Tora Matsuoka and Jeffrey Resnick, has Bryan Emperor at the stove and Hiro Sawatari at the sushi bar. The emphasis is on inventive sushi, like yuzu trout and chile-spiced tuna, and large plates, including wagyu skirt steak, Japanese sea bass with puffed rice, lobster with garlic and miso butter, and even bulgogi. The room is done Japanese-style in natural materials. (Monday): 12 West 21st Street, (212) 388-5736.

THE SMITH LINCOLN CENTER This is the third and largest of the Smiths, with a crowd-pleasing menu of everything from burgers to mussels in a brasserie setting. There are more steaks on the menu here, along with paella and pretheater low-alcohol libations: 1900 Broadway (63rd Street), (212) 496-5700.

SOTTO 13 This replacement for the short-lived Bigoli is informal, with booths, a communal table and a menu that features wood-fired pizza and sausage with polenta. (Saturday): 140 West 13th Street, (212) 647-1001.

Looking Ahead

BIEN CUIT The bakery on Smith Street in Brooklyn will open a Manhattan branch with cafe seating next month: 35 Christopher Street (Waverly Place).

CREATIVE JUICE Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group will run this chain of cafes at Equinox Fitness Clubs in the city. Michael Romano is creating the juice blends and salads. The first branches will be on the Upper West Side and in Midtown in December: 344 Amsterdam Avenue (76th Street), 1633 Broadway (50th Street).

Closing

BOOM A pioneer hot spot in SoHo has fallen victim to rising water in the basement, from Hurricane Sandy, and rising rents.

GILT The last dinner in the restaurant at the New York Palace hotel will be Dec. 15, to make way for a new Michel Richard restaurant.

RACK & SOUL This Upper West Side haven for ribs and fried chicken is no more.

An earlier version of this article listed the wrong phone number for Beatrice Inn. The correct phone number is (646) 896-1804, not (646) 895-1804.

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